Venison Wellington

At Oldfields, we’re lucky enough to get venison from Raby Estates down in Teesdale. Traditionally kept on country estates for both food and sport, deer are now generally kept as part of the view and contribute much as a tourist attraction. However, they need managing and their numbers controlled by occasional culling. As a result, I picked up a couple of roe deer last week and our head chef, Anthony Taylor, decided to use the loins for a twist on Beef Wellington. And the results were a triumph. Just as tender as the normal beef fillet that’s traditionally used but with much more flavour.

You should always be able to get venison from good butchers as well as estate farm shops and some farmers’ markets. However, you could always make the dish with the equivalent weight of beef fillet.

Serves two

One pack of frozen puff pastry – defrosted
300g venison loin in one piece
100g button mushrooms
One clove of garlic - peeled
½ a medium onion – peeled and roughly-chopped
The leaves of a sprig of thyme picked from the stalk
Two egg yokes - beaten
A knob of butter
Oil for cooking
Salt and freshly-ground black pepper

Place the mushrooms, garlic, thyme and mushrooms in a blender or food processor and blend to a course paste. Spoon into a dry pan and, stirring occasionally, place over a low heat; gently cooking until all the resulting liquid has reduced and evaporated and you’re left with a thick, black paté. Season with salt and pepper then allow to cool before placing in the fridge to chill.

Heat a frying pan, add a tablespoon of oil and then the venison, followed by the butter. Cook the meat for no more than 90 seconds on either side and the finished dish will be medium rare. Remove from the pan and place in the fridge to chill.

To cook, pre-heat the oven to 200°C, gas mark 6. Roll the pastry into a large square and spread with the cold mushroom paté, leaving a 3cm gap around the edge. Place the venison in the middle and wrap the meat up in the pastry; trimming as necessary. Brush all over with the egg yokes, place on a baking tray and cook in the oven for 15 minutes before removing and allowing to rest for five minutes.

To serve, cut into two portions through the diagonal and serve with spring vegetables.